But the faith endured

Two days ago we visited the Catacombs, but it isn't an easy thing to write about, so I waited for a bit.
We went to Calisto, which is the largest underground cemetery of the 60 (either in Rome or Italy). Christians began tunneling out Calisto in the mid 2nd century. It has 4 levels, covers about 37 acres, and half a million are buried there. The saddest part to me was that 40% are children and infants. We saw a lot of tombs that were maybe only 2 feet long.
Persecution wasn't constant, but it continued until 313 AD when Constantine legalized Christianity, and they could bury their dead above ground. Christians actually didn't live in the catacombs, though they did gather there. (The sulfur on the walls and insufficient ventilation would give you lung poisoning if you stayed too long.)
I was able to snap some pictures of illustrations of the drawings seen below. The anchor on the bottom left represents the trinity, the fish on the far right symbolizes Christ. A much simpler fish drawing (still around today) is actually an abbreviation of 5 greek words proclaiming the faith that spelled fish. To identify a Christian, one would begin to draw the fish in the sand, and the other would or wouldn't complete it.

An interesting story about St. Cecilia, who was once buried there... she died defending the faith after multiple attempts to kill her. They burned her, and tried to cut off her head three times, and when she finally died, her body was apparently perfectly preserved on inspection fifteen years later.

A couple other interesting facts- the barbarians actually raided the tombs in the 9th century and destroyed many of the bones there. It wasn't restored until 1849.  Up until 20 years ago, tourists would actually steal the leftover bones from the tombs. (I guess they were going for a very authentic souvenir.) Also interesting, people are still allowed come in to worship.

Overall, although a very dark and chilly experience, our tour guide was pretty fantastic. He was very inspired by all the people who had died for their faith, and encouraged us to think about the gravity of that and to learn from them, regardless of our own beliefs.
We were required to incorporate the catacombs in our writing for that day, and what I said sums up a lot of what I felt: "I am confident that fortunes improving should not change our course of action when we are called to respond against doubt and hesitation. I think those who buried their sons, daughters, and parents in the Catacombs understood this well. Eyes dry, chins up, no mourning in public, but the faith continued."

Before I go, I'll mention a church we stopped by afterward. It is said that the church is built over where Jesus appeared to Peter when he was leaving Rome. Jesus told him to stay, and that is where Peter was executed.


Below, our walk to the church. We were a bit lost, and some nuns on their way there offered to show us the church. To the right in the inside, which depicts the conversation between Jesus (right) and Peter (left) above. Middle left- Peter hanging upside down, as he was crucified. Right, Jesus hanging rightside up.

Also, last pic is apparently of the footprints Jesus' left after speaking with Peter.  The church is pretty literally built above them.

"You can siesta when you're dead"

What is the sun like here?
I heard that the Romans used to call it a lion. Especially when all the Italians are taking their 2-5 siestas, the hottest part of the day, and we're trudging through heat in the 90s-100s. It is an understatement to say that the heat takes the strength out of you.
Here is some humor/tragedy for you.
You know it's hot when...

-3 showers a day, 2 outfit changes
-The dogs are always panting
-You go through an aloe vera bottle for one sunburn, and sleep with a wet towel
-You listen to Bon Iver just to feel like you're in a cold forest
-You put deoderant between your legs to prevent chaffing
-One of your classmates goes to the hospital for 2nd degree burns
-The number of gelatos per day indicate the temperature rises

Today we took the train to Ostia-Antica. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way that train doors are automatic, and only stay open about 10 seconds. Train door slamming in my face, and being whisked away from my classmates? Check. Struggling through broken Italian to find the train back? Yep. Sitting on the bench, waiting for the next train was both comical and depressing.  One of my professors, Rebecca, had left to come back for me. We were late for a very traditional European tour guide.

(To the left, the beginnings of the fateful misadventure)

Our guide was fantastic though. A very well known, sassy, energetic old man named Jan Gedeyne. He repainted Ostia-Antiqa for us so well I could imagine the towering buildings, community baths, and crates rattling on the cobblestone. Ostia was an ancient port town in Rome (before the coast line moved). It died between 6-8th cent AD. By the end of the tour, he had memorized all our names. I was "the girl who got lost." Of course.

Here are the memories of old shops/apartments, and a road built to impress.


Ostia had the best brick work in Rome, and very beautiful mosiacs. Also below, their theater and a view of the end of the city, where the water used to be. Augustus placed his portrait in many theaters to make the people feel as if they were participating in the government, although he ruled as emperor with all power.

 

 

 Aww, a random statue of Cupid and Psyche kissing...

Our guide said the funniest things. He was very blunt, if not mean, but spoke in such a humor, authority and wit that he got away with it very well.

As we groan up the steps....
"Shade is for tourists."
"So this is the future of America?"
"Andiamo! (Let's go!) Do you think I was born with the face I have?"
"We don't sleep here. You can siesta when you're dead."

Learning our names...
To one of the girls who was smoking, "You who are going to die young, what is your name?"
One of us, who is amazed by his boundless energy and ability to remember our names. "What do you use?"  "Cocaine."

Roman food...
"Anything bean-y Rome loved" (Apparently this means that the Romans loved beans.)


After returning from the long day, we read poems at a park on Capitaline Hill. 2 weeks over already, we are halfway through! I was also given my new nick name. In Rome there are saints for practically everything- shipwrecks, lost things, children, etc, but apparently I found a new one! I became the "Patron Saint of lost train stops."

Breathtaking view from tonight... I will have to come up here to draw sometime.

GO ITALIA!!!

Tonight was an absolute blast. We went to an irish pub, Scholars, after a class lecture tonight to catch some of the Euro cup before homework. Italy VS Germany. We ended up staying the entire time. Homework is not going to happen, but it was absolutely worth being tired and unprepared tomorrow.

The bar was crowded even though we showed up a half hour before the game. Ordering a burger and a Beck's beer took an especially large amount of pushing and courage for me (Europeans do not seem to form lines). But man was that burger good. The small comforts of home, even something as small as a salty french fry is so nice.
The game was featured through 3 large TV screens. The players entered with pretty epic music and close ups on their faces, much like our football (the slow motion stroll, etc). Then the Italian anthem began, and the bar filled with singing.
It is very true that Europeans (I say this b/c there was a blend of Irish, German, English and Italians present) have a smaller space bubble. For example, a girl having a conversation behind me kept bumping my back with her elbow, and a woman spilled her beer on my leg. I was certainly pressed between people beyond comfortable.
We did have a fun conversation with a couple Scottish men though, who had traveled a lot. One used to be a professional Scottish soccer player which is pretty random but cool!
Italia was supposed to lose to Germany, but we held our game and won 2-1! From my little knowledge of soccer, we had some great moves, especially when one of the guys head butted the ball into the goal. Of course, the cheering in the bar was ear-shattering.
Walking back home, the streets were filled with honking. People flew large Italian flags out their sun roofs and windows. It reminded me of the energy from winning a UW football or Bothell High game.
Since we won the semi-finals, I believe we're playing in the finals this Sunday. Whoo!

Gardens of Eden

Today we explored 2 gardens outside Rome: Hadrian's Villa and Villa d'Este. 

Hadrian was an emperor from 117-138 AD, and created a gigantic villa to escape from Rome and enjoy solitude. It was filled with pools and fountains (many of which we had to imagine). 

Interesting facts about him- the Villa is built to represent all the places he traveled during his life (he spent over half is time out of Italy). He also made the beard popular in Rome.  His reign marks a time comparable to our America for the Roman upper class. Rome thrived in its best condition under his rule. Lastly, Hadrian was in love with a boy/young man, Antonus (his apprentice, then lover from 12-21). Apparently this was the Roman conception of the "purest" kind of love. After hearing Antonus had died tragically in the Nile river, Hadrian put statues of him everywhere throughout his Via and Rome.

 Left- when first entering the Via. I loved to get away from the city today. Seeing ruins and dead things just isn't like experiencing living things.

Left- his swimming pool, and a duck friend I made.

Below-  replica of the Nile river.

 

On to my favorite part of the day... the most beautiful place I've ever been (perhaps I've said this already, but this day trumphs all! If you ever make it to Rome, GO HERE.) 

Villa d'Este was a Renaissance family's escape house from the city. 

"The gardens were meant to be, as it were, an organ on which the water played."

We had a writing assignment, but all I could do was gape and take pictures. The heat was unbearable, but dragging my feet around was absolutely worth it. 

View of Tivoli from the garden.

 

Alright, off to homework. 

Love you all!

Ciao.

The Empire Strikes Back

Dunh dunh... today was a day of colossal proportions.

We began by an early morning in the Forum and then traveled to Palatine hill. The Forum was the hub of ancient Roman life: a marketplace, criminal trials, triumphal processions, house/temple of the 6 Vestas, Julius Caesar's original burial place, public speeches...
Palatine Hill, just up to the right, was where Rome originated via the myth about the she-wolf and twins. Emperor Augustus also was born there, built a palace, temple, and revived the secular-religious Roman games.

Here is a good view from our first night in Rome together as a class.



I will perhaps add more information later, but it was very confusing tracking which building was which with the map we were given. I need to do some research to clarify the facts.

But onto the most fantastic part of the day!
 The Colosseum!!!
It was almost comical seeing such an ancient, breath-taking building in the middle of a very busy, modern street. It's hard to find words for what it felt like to walk inside, so I will mostly share pictures.

There were 4 floors- 2 that we could access: the ground floor, and then one with a view of everything below.  The pit/maze of walls and doors below the ground floor was actually once covered. It held the wild animals that were released throughout the games.

Below is the Colessium at sunset. The color of the stone becomes very rosy. In the middle of the awe though, it is very sobering to think about how many people were brutally murdered. It wasn't a beautiful place back then, and I don't think I could call it a beautiful place today, even though it is a masterpiece. It's like a caged and crippled lion retired from its younger days . Still majestic and barring its fangs.

Here are some of the crosses I saw there. The biggest one is seen when you first enter, in memorial of the Christian martyrs. As I walked throughout, random crosses were etched in the stone. Outside, here is the arc that commarates the legalization of Christianity in Rome.

If I lived back then, I could have been brought to this very place to be crushed by the tigers. Or in the least, people that I loved would have been. Rome is one very large cemetery, and the Colosseum was the bloodiest heart of it.

La Nostra Casalina (Our apartment)

I may be avoiding working on a speech about Palatine Hill for tomorrow.  I may also be sitting here with a cold, wet towel because I became a tomato after falling asleep at the beach yesterday.
So, I am going to upload pictures and fill you guys in on our apartment.
We have been very blessed... much much better than anything I was expecting. It looks like something out of an Ikea magazine, very modern for such an old place!


Here is the view of our kitchen when you walk in the front door. I love the key-hole look! (We also have a very cool butter-fly key. An interesting thing about keys, they go in the door upside down here.)

(Other view- right)

To the left,  the entrance to my room. I share with one girl, Melissa. We have four total girls living here. They are great- super respectful, clean, fun to hang out with, cook, and memorize poetry together.  To the right, my first experience drying laundry, Italian style. This is our balcony.


This is funny. Some Italian toilets have two buttons: one for more water. Need I say more? :)

Our washer is terrifying though. We were warned to be very careful: If you put in too many clothes, it breaks. If you don't put in enough, or run it empty, it breaks. If you open it too early, it breaks.
After running my first load, it freaked out and starting doing another load empty. I pressed pause, and then didn't know what to do. It was stuck like that for a couple days before our apartment manager said he'd come in. We figured out how to fix it the night before, so I left a message on his phone not to come in. But unfortunately, he sent a worker in to fix it who didn't speak any English. It was very difficult trying to communicate everything was okay, and we felt bad about it.

Lastly, funny story. We were left with a fish tank in one of the rooms. A couple days later when showing our apartment to some other girls in the program, we noticed a fish in there! We almost starved a fish! We have named him Trevi and have moved him into the living room, so he can socialize with us and we won't forget to feed him.

Alright, I really should go. Ciao!

A World Below Glass

We visited Palazzo Valentini today.

(Here is a link if you'd like: http://www.palazzovalentini.it/index.php?lang=eng)

Our prompt today was to describe 4 rooms, each having a season that followed a literary archtype: summer: romance, spring: comedy, fall: tragedy, and winter: irony/satire. I'll share these snapshots with you:

Spring

Our own beloved stories must have first lived in Rome.
At the Pantheon, I entered the walls of Mines of Moria.
The Villa Julia, I saw the balcony of Juliet
There is even a statue near our apartment that glows green and stout
a Yoda he is.
Today, we entered the Twilight Zone (or the Tower of Terror)
with glass floors over a cemetery of pools, wells, and broken stairways.
An epic soundtrack and a man's enthuisastic voice lead us through the strange tour.
Our stomachs cringed as we were swallowed up in darkness,
and then watched the Roman world repainted, while teetering on glass.

Summer

The Roman recipe for roman-ce
needs only inspiration.
Love is crafted in the party pools under mosiac ceilings
with flushed servants carrying trays.
He orders flamingo tongue and she: peacock brain- a dainty morsel
she lifts to her lips, that flirts the torch light off her utensil.
He swallows hard, a tinge of sweat crowning his forehead.

Fall
 (to a Decian soldier)

Rome won because of its strength in weapons and organization.
I cannot fathom such a battle, that once adorned a temple's pillar in chiseled color.
They saluted your courage,
though their men pushed forward with swords
while holding your brothers' heads in their teeth,
and their women seared your naked, captured brothers with torches.
Though you died a humble beheading,
your king slit his throat to die proud.

 Here is the column, which once stood in the middle of the temple, telling the story of the Roman victory over the Decians (my spelling is likely terrible, but I'm having trouble finding out their correct name at the moment). It has over 2,500 characters etched from bottom to top. Everything had to be calculated from the beginning before hammering into the marble.

Winter

Goddess of knowledge and war,
Minerva went tumbling.
The archeologists found your white head
at the bottom of a hardened pool.
Helmet useless, your face slighted.
They inquire of you,
pleading for answers to the riddles
your faulty worshipers left behind.
What is a goddess without her people?
What knowledge to share, or war to advise
when her Romans find themselves deep under
a Renaissance tide?

Capitoline Museum and an Opera concert

Buona sera! (Good evening)

Musei Capitolini- my favorite museum so far. Here's the link for a virtual tour:
http://tourvirtuale.museicapitolini.org/#en
Our writing prompt was to draw 2-3 different things and write about them. Apparently so many artists flood the museum that they only allow you to draw with a permit. We only got a permit for one room, so we fulfilled the prompt for the rest of the museum as stealthily as possible :)

Giant foot! 


To the left, a gold statue of either Hercules or Apollo. The Romans specialized in intimidation.

Interesting myth. How did Rome begin? To the left is a sculpture of the she-wolf and two twins: Remus and Romulus. These brothers were descendants of Aeneas, hero from Troy. They were abandoned and rescued by a wolf who nursed them back to health in a cave within Palatine hill. Romulus eventually killed his brother Remus after a heated argument, and took possession of the area, establishing Rome. Thus, "Rome" comes from the name Romulus.










There are so many other beautiful things to share! One area that especially overwhelmed me held a variety of important documents, such as:
a letter from Marie Antoinette to her brother in law describing her despair, the dogma of Mary's Conception, Mozart's golden spur, a letter from Jefferson Davis to Lincoln, the imperial ban against Martin Luther declaring him a heretic of the Catholic church, the Copernican theory, and other books or letters regarding popes, Henry VIII, Columbus... and many other important people I felt like I should know.

Despite the awe of this... my favorite moment so far on this trip happened spontaneously last night. My roommate and I decided to wander around, and stumbled upon what seemed to be a church service. It was actually an opera concert. We ended up watching the whole thing for free! It was the most beautiful concert I've ever been to.  The isle lined with white flowers, candles and chandeliers circling the front, voices echoing and filling every corner of the church... It was very special experience this with the Italian people. I felt like one of them. No camera, and I was glad not to have one.

I shall have some Nutella and catch some of the soccer game on TV (a big deal here, so I probably should participate) before bed.

Buona notte! (Night!)

Che bello! Flowers and Food

Hello again!
After a long day of visiting the Etruscan tombs (a people that were wiped out by the Romans but were very influential), I felt like I should be more excited. But I kept getting distracted by living things: a very friendly lab who greeted us when we stepped off the bus, a field of sunflowers, the wind blown trees, a deep well that had been closed off...
So I just won't write about the Etruscans.  Enough dead people for now! :)
Here is the field that we saw on the ride there (about an hour from Rome). I was very very excited.
I didn't even know sunflowers came in fields! I have only seen them in gardens or grocery stores.

On the right- a butterfly hanging out by a tomb. There were tons of them.

On to food! Today we ate at a Pizzeria, and one of our professors ordered this pizza. It was too cute to resist taking a picture. Feeling daring, I ordered fettucine con lepre (or fettucine with hare). I couldn't distinctly taste the meat with the sauce, but it was still pretty delicious. Kim, one of my roommates, ordered pasta with boar. Since we were near, if not in the Tuscany area, these meals are more common out of the city.

I ordered this cappucino the other day for 1.10 E. This particular place required you to order in line and then stand at the bar to drink the coffee. Italians believe that you should never drink milk after noon, so I was sure to order this before 12. (They also are particular about beer, never serving it cold but room temperature. Apparently a cold beer shocks your system.)

To the left, some of the images on the wall. I especially enjoyed seeing the clock with coffee beans. 

And of course, you can't forget gelato!
Here is a picture of the store next to our apartment (which just adds to the temptation):

 

I'll end with a picture from the night we out to eat. Our class went to a fancy restaurant together (it must have already been paid for in our study abroad fee). They served us four courses- meat that melts in your mouth, peaches with brownie as the pit... everything seemed to ooze butter or cheese . Here is the first course and our wine below: