Make a wish

The last four days have been our break, and we have loved having time off class! School starts again tomorrow, and we're up for 2 more weeks of craziness.

Sunday night was Italia's final match against Spain for the Euro cup. We went to the Circus Maximus, and it seemed like all of Rome was there- dazzling, loud, and smoky:
Small fireworks and smoke bombs, flags unfurling, a sea of faces, and 2nd hand smoke so bad you could nearly feel your lungs popping. Whistles shrieking, hugging, kissing, throwing brothers up above shoulders, and the national anthem belted with high shoulders and smiling faces. Also, it was very warm and sweaty.

Here is the national anthem at the stadium: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tt6yvjSSW4

 I wish we didn't lose so badly! 0-4. Lots of water bottles were thrown throughout the game, lots of angry and sad Italians. It was the quietest night in Rome, it seemed, since I can remember.



Last night we went to the Ice Bar, which was absolute heaven. It felt like Seattle but better!
Where in the world would Rome get all that ice? They ship it from England to remake the walls every year.
We heard that the record time to stay inside was 40 minutes, so we were up for the challenge! They gave us these funny ponchos to wear to keep the heat in. We felt like penguins. We also tried to have a dance party, and it was hilarious because all we could do was flap. They served our drinks in ice cups, and we sat in an igloo on sheepskin benches. It was all very surreal.
We made it 40 minutes, to only find out the record was actually 4 hours.  I have much more respect for the German that lasted it out now.

Left- entering into a strange world. Right- me, Melanya, Katherine, Oliva, Kim. (Katherine and Kim are my two of my three room mates.)

 

We made it to the Trevi fountain around 1:00 AM. It is always so crowded during the day, we were told late at night was the best time to go.
Guess what? About 3,000 Euros are thrown into the fountain every day! The money goes to a soup kitchen/organization for the poor, which is awesome.

Far right- making a wish. I learned later that throwing my one coin means I will return to Rome again.

 

Olivia, Kim, Me, Mat
(it was Olivia's birthday, so a very fun 21 for her!)

But the faith endured

Two days ago we visited the Catacombs, but it isn't an easy thing to write about, so I waited for a bit.
We went to Calisto, which is the largest underground cemetery of the 60 (either in Rome or Italy). Christians began tunneling out Calisto in the mid 2nd century. It has 4 levels, covers about 37 acres, and half a million are buried there. The saddest part to me was that 40% are children and infants. We saw a lot of tombs that were maybe only 2 feet long.
Persecution wasn't constant, but it continued until 313 AD when Constantine legalized Christianity, and they could bury their dead above ground. Christians actually didn't live in the catacombs, though they did gather there. (The sulfur on the walls and insufficient ventilation would give you lung poisoning if you stayed too long.)
I was able to snap some pictures of illustrations of the drawings seen below. The anchor on the bottom left represents the trinity, the fish on the far right symbolizes Christ. A much simpler fish drawing (still around today) is actually an abbreviation of 5 greek words proclaiming the faith that spelled fish. To identify a Christian, one would begin to draw the fish in the sand, and the other would or wouldn't complete it.

An interesting story about St. Cecilia, who was once buried there... she died defending the faith after multiple attempts to kill her. They burned her, and tried to cut off her head three times, and when she finally died, her body was apparently perfectly preserved on inspection fifteen years later.

A couple other interesting facts- the barbarians actually raided the tombs in the 9th century and destroyed many of the bones there. It wasn't restored until 1849.  Up until 20 years ago, tourists would actually steal the leftover bones from the tombs. (I guess they were going for a very authentic souvenir.) Also interesting, people are still allowed come in to worship.

Overall, although a very dark and chilly experience, our tour guide was pretty fantastic. He was very inspired by all the people who had died for their faith, and encouraged us to think about the gravity of that and to learn from them, regardless of our own beliefs.
We were required to incorporate the catacombs in our writing for that day, and what I said sums up a lot of what I felt: "I am confident that fortunes improving should not change our course of action when we are called to respond against doubt and hesitation. I think those who buried their sons, daughters, and parents in the Catacombs understood this well. Eyes dry, chins up, no mourning in public, but the faith continued."

Before I go, I'll mention a church we stopped by afterward. It is said that the church is built over where Jesus appeared to Peter when he was leaving Rome. Jesus told him to stay, and that is where Peter was executed.


Below, our walk to the church. We were a bit lost, and some nuns on their way there offered to show us the church. To the right in the inside, which depicts the conversation between Jesus (right) and Peter (left) above. Middle left- Peter hanging upside down, as he was crucified. Right, Jesus hanging rightside up.

Also, last pic is apparently of the footprints Jesus' left after speaking with Peter.  The church is pretty literally built above them.

"You can siesta when you're dead"

What is the sun like here?
I heard that the Romans used to call it a lion. Especially when all the Italians are taking their 2-5 siestas, the hottest part of the day, and we're trudging through heat in the 90s-100s. It is an understatement to say that the heat takes the strength out of you.
Here is some humor/tragedy for you.
You know it's hot when...

-3 showers a day, 2 outfit changes
-The dogs are always panting
-You go through an aloe vera bottle for one sunburn, and sleep with a wet towel
-You listen to Bon Iver just to feel like you're in a cold forest
-You put deoderant between your legs to prevent chaffing
-One of your classmates goes to the hospital for 2nd degree burns
-The number of gelatos per day indicate the temperature rises

Today we took the train to Ostia-Antica. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way that train doors are automatic, and only stay open about 10 seconds. Train door slamming in my face, and being whisked away from my classmates? Check. Struggling through broken Italian to find the train back? Yep. Sitting on the bench, waiting for the next train was both comical and depressing.  One of my professors, Rebecca, had left to come back for me. We were late for a very traditional European tour guide.

(To the left, the beginnings of the fateful misadventure)

Our guide was fantastic though. A very well known, sassy, energetic old man named Jan Gedeyne. He repainted Ostia-Antiqa for us so well I could imagine the towering buildings, community baths, and crates rattling on the cobblestone. Ostia was an ancient port town in Rome (before the coast line moved). It died between 6-8th cent AD. By the end of the tour, he had memorized all our names. I was "the girl who got lost." Of course.

Here are the memories of old shops/apartments, and a road built to impress.


Ostia had the best brick work in Rome, and very beautiful mosiacs. Also below, their theater and a view of the end of the city, where the water used to be. Augustus placed his portrait in many theaters to make the people feel as if they were participating in the government, although he ruled as emperor with all power.

 

 

 Aww, a random statue of Cupid and Psyche kissing...

Our guide said the funniest things. He was very blunt, if not mean, but spoke in such a humor, authority and wit that he got away with it very well.

As we groan up the steps....
"Shade is for tourists."
"So this is the future of America?"
"Andiamo! (Let's go!) Do you think I was born with the face I have?"
"We don't sleep here. You can siesta when you're dead."

Learning our names...
To one of the girls who was smoking, "You who are going to die young, what is your name?"
One of us, who is amazed by his boundless energy and ability to remember our names. "What do you use?"  "Cocaine."

Roman food...
"Anything bean-y Rome loved" (Apparently this means that the Romans loved beans.)


After returning from the long day, we read poems at a park on Capitaline Hill. 2 weeks over already, we are halfway through! I was also given my new nick name. In Rome there are saints for practically everything- shipwrecks, lost things, children, etc, but apparently I found a new one! I became the "Patron Saint of lost train stops."

Breathtaking view from tonight... I will have to come up here to draw sometime.

GO ITALIA!!!

Tonight was an absolute blast. We went to an irish pub, Scholars, after a class lecture tonight to catch some of the Euro cup before homework. Italy VS Germany. We ended up staying the entire time. Homework is not going to happen, but it was absolutely worth being tired and unprepared tomorrow.

The bar was crowded even though we showed up a half hour before the game. Ordering a burger and a Beck's beer took an especially large amount of pushing and courage for me (Europeans do not seem to form lines). But man was that burger good. The small comforts of home, even something as small as a salty french fry is so nice.
The game was featured through 3 large TV screens. The players entered with pretty epic music and close ups on their faces, much like our football (the slow motion stroll, etc). Then the Italian anthem began, and the bar filled with singing.
It is very true that Europeans (I say this b/c there was a blend of Irish, German, English and Italians present) have a smaller space bubble. For example, a girl having a conversation behind me kept bumping my back with her elbow, and a woman spilled her beer on my leg. I was certainly pressed between people beyond comfortable.
We did have a fun conversation with a couple Scottish men though, who had traveled a lot. One used to be a professional Scottish soccer player which is pretty random but cool!
Italia was supposed to lose to Germany, but we held our game and won 2-1! From my little knowledge of soccer, we had some great moves, especially when one of the guys head butted the ball into the goal. Of course, the cheering in the bar was ear-shattering.
Walking back home, the streets were filled with honking. People flew large Italian flags out their sun roofs and windows. It reminded me of the energy from winning a UW football or Bothell High game.
Since we won the semi-finals, I believe we're playing in the finals this Sunday. Whoo!

Gardens of Eden

Today we explored 2 gardens outside Rome: Hadrian's Villa and Villa d'Este. 

Hadrian was an emperor from 117-138 AD, and created a gigantic villa to escape from Rome and enjoy solitude. It was filled with pools and fountains (many of which we had to imagine). 

Interesting facts about him- the Villa is built to represent all the places he traveled during his life (he spent over half is time out of Italy). He also made the beard popular in Rome.  His reign marks a time comparable to our America for the Roman upper class. Rome thrived in its best condition under his rule. Lastly, Hadrian was in love with a boy/young man, Antonus (his apprentice, then lover from 12-21). Apparently this was the Roman conception of the "purest" kind of love. After hearing Antonus had died tragically in the Nile river, Hadrian put statues of him everywhere throughout his Via and Rome.

 Left- when first entering the Via. I loved to get away from the city today. Seeing ruins and dead things just isn't like experiencing living things.

Left- his swimming pool, and a duck friend I made.

Below-  replica of the Nile river.

 

On to my favorite part of the day... the most beautiful place I've ever been (perhaps I've said this already, but this day trumphs all! If you ever make it to Rome, GO HERE.) 

Villa d'Este was a Renaissance family's escape house from the city. 

"The gardens were meant to be, as it were, an organ on which the water played."

We had a writing assignment, but all I could do was gape and take pictures. The heat was unbearable, but dragging my feet around was absolutely worth it. 

View of Tivoli from the garden.

 

Alright, off to homework. 

Love you all!

Ciao.

The Empire Strikes Back

Dunh dunh... today was a day of colossal proportions.

We began by an early morning in the Forum and then traveled to Palatine hill. The Forum was the hub of ancient Roman life: a marketplace, criminal trials, triumphal processions, house/temple of the 6 Vestas, Julius Caesar's original burial place, public speeches...
Palatine Hill, just up to the right, was where Rome originated via the myth about the she-wolf and twins. Emperor Augustus also was born there, built a palace, temple, and revived the secular-religious Roman games.

Here is a good view from our first night in Rome together as a class.



I will perhaps add more information later, but it was very confusing tracking which building was which with the map we were given. I need to do some research to clarify the facts.

But onto the most fantastic part of the day!
 The Colosseum!!!
It was almost comical seeing such an ancient, breath-taking building in the middle of a very busy, modern street. It's hard to find words for what it felt like to walk inside, so I will mostly share pictures.

There were 4 floors- 2 that we could access: the ground floor, and then one with a view of everything below.  The pit/maze of walls and doors below the ground floor was actually once covered. It held the wild animals that were released throughout the games.

Below is the Colessium at sunset. The color of the stone becomes very rosy. In the middle of the awe though, it is very sobering to think about how many people were brutally murdered. It wasn't a beautiful place back then, and I don't think I could call it a beautiful place today, even though it is a masterpiece. It's like a caged and crippled lion retired from its younger days . Still majestic and barring its fangs.

Here are some of the crosses I saw there. The biggest one is seen when you first enter, in memorial of the Christian martyrs. As I walked throughout, random crosses were etched in the stone. Outside, here is the arc that commarates the legalization of Christianity in Rome.

If I lived back then, I could have been brought to this very place to be crushed by the tigers. Or in the least, people that I loved would have been. Rome is one very large cemetery, and the Colosseum was the bloodiest heart of it.

La Nostra Casalina (Our apartment)

I may be avoiding working on a speech about Palatine Hill for tomorrow.  I may also be sitting here with a cold, wet towel because I became a tomato after falling asleep at the beach yesterday.
So, I am going to upload pictures and fill you guys in on our apartment.
We have been very blessed... much much better than anything I was expecting. It looks like something out of an Ikea magazine, very modern for such an old place!


Here is the view of our kitchen when you walk in the front door. I love the key-hole look! (We also have a very cool butter-fly key. An interesting thing about keys, they go in the door upside down here.)

(Other view- right)

To the left,  the entrance to my room. I share with one girl, Melissa. We have four total girls living here. They are great- super respectful, clean, fun to hang out with, cook, and memorize poetry together.  To the right, my first experience drying laundry, Italian style. This is our balcony.


This is funny. Some Italian toilets have two buttons: one for more water. Need I say more? :)

Our washer is terrifying though. We were warned to be very careful: If you put in too many clothes, it breaks. If you don't put in enough, or run it empty, it breaks. If you open it too early, it breaks.
After running my first load, it freaked out and starting doing another load empty. I pressed pause, and then didn't know what to do. It was stuck like that for a couple days before our apartment manager said he'd come in. We figured out how to fix it the night before, so I left a message on his phone not to come in. But unfortunately, he sent a worker in to fix it who didn't speak any English. It was very difficult trying to communicate everything was okay, and we felt bad about it.

Lastly, funny story. We were left with a fish tank in one of the rooms. A couple days later when showing our apartment to some other girls in the program, we noticed a fish in there! We almost starved a fish! We have named him Trevi and have moved him into the living room, so he can socialize with us and we won't forget to feed him.

Alright, I really should go. Ciao!